You don’t go to Iquitos for the silence.
The people at the airfield wore headphones. After a while in the city, I began to wonder if I should too. The city is alive with the rumble of motor taxis, the whine of aircon battling the aggressive heat, and the clatter of life in the once legendary city. In fact, Iquitos was once the richest city in Peru, despite only being accessible by boat and air. Even today, Iquitos is the largest city in the world that is not connected by road.
Why Go to Iquitos?
Iquitos is an extremely historically rich place. It’s faced great pain and suffering and has come through the other side. It is one of the best places to see the Amazon river, and you can visit the Pacaya Samiria reserve, well known for its black reflective waters and diverse wildlife. Iquitos is also the place to visit to see the pink dolphins of the Amazon and to visit indigenous communities.
Check Out: Our Amazon Tours– carefully designed to offer you the best of the jungle. Or, get in contact with us and we will help you create your dream adventure through the largest rainforest on the planet.
The Rubber Boom & History of the City
So, how did Iquitos become the richest city in the country? And how did it lose it? After all, the richest city in Peru is no small title. During the late 19th century, the rubber boom happened. 33 years of rubber extraction from trees encouraged the expansion of Iquitos- previously barely a town, but with the discovery of rubber, the Europeans moved in and began yet another wave of colonization in Peru.
As colonization is want to do, the rubber boom wreaked terrible havoc on indigenous populations in Iquitos (and across Brazil and Colombia). Rubber plantation Barrons enslaved the indigenous people, forcing them to work long hours in the hot jungle. Many, many indigenous people died, through overwork, abuse, torture, and murder at the hands of the Slave Barrons.
A British Consul traveled to Iquitos and said of what he saw:
Author Wade Davies said:
The horrors of the rubber boom came to an end when seeds were transported to other British Colonial sites in places like Malaysia. It was much cheaper to produce rubber in these areas- so production moved there, and the slave Barrons simply followed the wealth.
Because of this, the city of Iquitos is unlike any that I have ever seen or experienced before. Art nouveau buildings abound in disrepair. Casa Morey was lucky. It has been restored. It reminds me of Lima’s Hotel B from the outside. But Hotel B does not give sachets of Head and Shoulders shampoo.
There are over 70 such buildings, in various states of repair. The Palace Hotel, once the grandest of all Peru, is now a military base. The Iron House, is a metal building designed to stay cool in the thirty to forty-degree heat. Designed and fabricated by Gustave Eiffel (yes he of the Parisian tower) is now filled with chemists and grocery shops.
The city itself is poor, and there are very few options for “luxury”, be it hotels or restaurants. However, Iquitos is a city rich in history and culturally proud people. It is a fantastic example of the true resilience of Peruvians.
How to say Iquitos
Iquitos is pronounced as it is written, which is the same as many Peruvian words. Phonetically: Ee-key-toss.
What does Iquitos Mean?
Iquitos is the name of one of the local tribes that called the area home before the colonizers came. Iquito is also the name of one of the few surviving Zaparoan languages– with just 25 native speakers left, and about 25 passive speakers of the Iquito language. Other surviving languages that fall under the Zaparoan umbrella are Záparo and Arabela. Arabela has about 75 speakers, and Záparo has under 5.
How Big is Iquitos, Peru?
Iquitos is the biggest city in the Peruvian Andes, and the wider district covers 1,213km², including 340km² of water- the Amazon Rainforest. This makes it the largest city in the world that cannot be accessed by road.
Check Out: Our Amazon Tours– carefully designed to offer you the best of the jungle. Or, get in contact with us and we will help you create your dream adventure through the largest rainforest on the planet.
What Province is Iquitos in?
Iquitos is a city and a district in Peru. It is in the Maynas province and the greater Loreta Region.
Elevation of Iquitos
104 meters above sea level (341 feet above sea level)
Map of Iquitos
How to Get to Iquitos from Lima
The most common way to get to Iquitos from Lima is to fly. Iquitos has its own airport and flying from Lima takes just under 2 hours. As mentioned earlier in the article, Iquitos is the largest city in the world not accessible by car- so naturally, arriving by any kind of road vehicle is not possible, and neither is arriving by train.
However, it is possible to take a boat into the city. To do this you must first travel to Tarapoto, which can be accessed via flight, car, or bus (flight is still the recommended option, however). From Tarapoto, you can take a combi, tuk-tuk, or taxi to Yurimaguas, where the boat departs. This is a three-day trip down the Amazon river (depending on the water levels) and can be cut short by about 12 hours by opting to take a bus from Nauta to Iquitos. Another option for accessing Iquitos via boat is from Pucallpa, which takes around 5 days and has multiple stops along the way.
While a multi-day cruise along the Peruvian Amazon sounds like it might get pretty expensive- these boats are not. They are also most certainly not luxury. These boats are predominantly used to transport cargo (including live animals) and locals around. You have the option of a private cabin and a hammock on deck, and there are no seating areas, etc on board, although food is provided. The price will depend on your Spanish skills and your haggling skills- but it shouldn’t be more than 400s per person on a bad day.
Check Out: Our Amazon Tours– carefully designed to offer you the best of the jungle. Or, get in contact with us and we will help you create your dream adventure through the largest rainforest on the planet.
How to get from Iquitos to Cusco
Before the pandemic, there were three flights a week connecting Iquitos and Cusco directly. Sadly, this is no longer the case. To get from Iquitos to Cusco these days, you have to fly back via Lima. Of course, if you don’t want to fly then you can take the boat mentioned above to Tarapoto, then a bus back to Lima, and a bus to Cusco. However, this journey would take you at least a week and would be increasingly uncomfortable, so it’s recommended to fly- which would take about 5 hours depending on your connection time.
How Far is Iquitos from Machu Picchu?
As the crow flies, it is 1052.5km (654 miles) between the city of Iquitos and Machu Picchu. There are no direct transport routes between the two, but the fastest way between the two would be to fly from Iquitos to Lima (2 hours), then to fly from Lima to Cusco (1.5 hours). From there, it’s three hours via train to get from Cusco to Machu Picchu.
What’s the Weather like?
Thanks to its location in the rainforest, the weather in Iquitos is somewhat stable all year round. The hottest month is September, with an average high temperature of around 33°C (91°F), and the coldest month is January, with an average high temperature of 29.8°C (85.5°F). The average low-temperature drops to 21.9°C (71.4°F) in September, and 22°C (71.6°F) in January.
So, the weather in Iquitos is relatively consistent all year round. It is important to note that Iquitos is very humid, so loose, light clothing is recommended. Be aware that this is the rainforest as well, and it is likely to rain while you are there in short, heavy bursts.
Check Out: Our Amazon Tours– carefully designed to offer you the best of the jungle. Or, get in contact with us and we will help you create your dream adventure through the largest rainforest on the planet.
When to Go
Because of its location in the rainforest, Iquitos maintains similar temperatures all year round, and rain usually falls in short heavy bursts. It does rain for slightly longer bursts between January and March, but it’s nothing that would put a traveler off. It’s also the peak tourist season in June and July, so if you prefer a quieter visit then avoid these months.
What to See
What you want to see can be divided up into two sections: the city of Iquitos and the jungle of Iquitos. Naturally, these are two totally different things and experiences, so they are filed under different titles:
The City
Spot the Buildings
As mentioned at the beginning of this blog, there are many art nuevo buildings around Iquitos, all in various states of disrepair. It is relatively fun to spend a few hours wandering around, spotting these buildings and imagining the hub it was while in the grip of yet another colonialist attack.
Visit the Museums In general, the museums in Iquitos are not that amazing- they are mostly focused in a single room and have limited staff and information. However, there are certainly some interesting ones- and they do help you to garner a deeper understanding of the city and its people as well as the jungle and the indigenous people that call it home. A personal favorite of mine was the Museum of Indigenous Amazonian Cultures, which can be found along the Malecon (waterfront).
Visit the Manatee Rescue Center– This is a social project designed to rescue, rehabilitate, and release manatees injured by fishermen or the elements. It’s a great social program that is trying its best with limited resources, and it is worth a visit and a donation if you have the cash. All ticket sales go towards helping the animals they look after.
Iquitos Market – There are two different markets in Iquitos, and both of them are definitely worth a visit, but keep your valuables tucked in safely in case of any opportunistic thieves. Mercado Belén is a huge and lively market that stops for no man, woman, or child. You will find alligator barbequing, spells waiting to be cast, jewelry, skulls, and everything you could imagine here. It’s awesome and it will suck you in. It might be worth going with a guide if you want to be sure that you see everything and don’t get totally ripped off.
The other option is Nanay. This market is much smaller, and predominantly sells food and fish right from the river. We visited specifically to try the Suri grub– a type of huge worm thrown on the bbq and eaten. It was… pretty good! To me, it tasted like very juicy chicken skin. I recommend trying it to anyone who has the stomach to put a whole fat worm in their mouth.
Check Out: Our Amazon Tours– carefully designed to offer you the best of the jungle. Or, get in contact with us and we will help you create your dream adventure through the largest rainforest on the planet.
Amazon Tours
As always, it’s crucial while researching any tour to take into consideration how ethical it is. There are tours in Iquitos that offer trips to places like monkey island- promising an island full of monkeys just waiting to interact with you. As tempting as it sounds, monkey island isn’t really ethical, as these are captive monkeys, kept for human entertainment.
It wasn’t very long ago that the people of Iquitos let their pet monkeys go, and head into the wild. Because of this, it’s still very much possible to get up close and personal with the monkeys in Iquitos without giving your money to monkey island. Just find a good guide, and take some mangos. However, you still should under no circumstances, touch them. While they are friendly and grew up around people, they are still wild, unpredictable animals.
The huge, huge majority of things that people want to do in Iquitos can be done on a multi-day tour into the jungle, and it should be. To stay on a multi-day tour saves you a lot of time traveling back and forth- plus the quality of the lodges along the river is just as good (if not better) than the hotels in Iquitos itself. Get in contact with us today to discuss the types of Amazon tours we can offer you.
How long to spend there?
The main thing to do is to visit the Amazon. When deciding how long you’d like to spend in the city, consider how much time you’d like to spend in the Amazon as a primary thought. The actual city doesn’t cater to tourists as well as other cities in Peru do (namely Cusco), so you may find yourself running out of things to do quickly if you opt to spend too much time there.
When it comes to your tours in the Amazon, I would recommend a multi-day tour over choosing various day trips. It’s a long journey to Nauta (about 2 hours) and that is where the majority of tours leave from. To return to the city each night would be a huge waste of time. If you want to spend 5 days in the jungle, get a 5-day tour in order to maximize your time.
Hotels in Iquitos
Iquitos is one of the only major tourist destination cities in Peru that hasn’t welcomed huge name-branded hotels like the Belmond, the Marriot, etc. The only international brand of a hotel to be found in Iquitos is The Hilton. It is found right on the Plaza de Armas, and while not the most beautiful of the chain from the outside, the inside offers the same level of comfort you can expect from other Hiltons.
Aside from this, the hotels and hostels in the city center are predominantly family-owned and range between one and three(ish) stars. If you’re looking for international comfort then you’re better off in the Hilton, but if you want something a little more homely, why not browse booking.com and choose one that has the vibe that you are aiming for?
Restaurants in Iquitos
Iquitos isn’t exactly known for its food. The jungle as a whole isn’t really known for its food. That being said, I personally love the simplicity of the dining. The freshness and the sweetness of the food. One of the best meals of my life was at an outdoor bbq spot in Tarapoto- huge tables with strangers lumped together, delicious meat, and the wonderful barbequed banana. I’m also somewhat opposed to traveling to the jungle and ordering a pizza. It’s going to taste bad, just don’t bother.
The top 5 best-rated Peruvian Amazonic restaurants in Iquitos are:
- Al Frio y Al Fuego
- Restaurante Blanquita
- El Sitio
- La Casa de Fierro Restaurante
- IKIITU
Check Out: Our Amazon Tours– carefully designed to offer you the best of the jungle. Or, get in contact with us and we will help you create your dream adventure through the largest rainforest on the planet.
Try them out, and let us know what you think!
How safe is Iquitos Peru?
Iquitos is a relatively safe city and you should feel safe walking around. However, as with every big city in the world, it is still important for you to keep your wits about you and avoid unnecessary flashing of valuables (including cell phones), and if you feel unsafe, try to exit a situation as calmly as possible. Keeping your wits about you is an important part of traveling- especially in South America.
Is Iquitos the Best Place to See the Amazon?
The Amazon is huge, and the best place to see it depends on what you want out of the experience. If you want to see the actual Amazon river, then Iquitos is probably one of the best places to do it. However, there is more to the jungle than the Amazon river. There are even different rivers that are just as vital to the life of the rainforest, such as the Madre de Díos in Manu, and the meeting of the Tambopata River and the Madre de Díos in Puerto Maldonado.
So where is the best place to visit the jungle in Peru?
Iquitos, Puerto Maldonado, Tambopata, or Manu?
Iquitos is a large jungle city, with indigenous populations around. If you want to understand modern jungle life, Iquitos is the best place to do so. It also offers activities like river cruises, with the opportunity to see pink river dolphins- although there are slightly fewer on-land activities available than other destinations. There are plenty of opportunities to see wild monkeys, birds, and sloths. The terrain is quite flat, so you will not get huge and impressive views of the jungle. The jungle itself is tropical.
Puerto Maldonado has both tropical and sub-tropical jungles, meaning there is a higher diversity of animal life you may see. Puerto Maldonado also has a better opportunity for visitors to see larger mammals. A huge bonus of Puerto Maldonado is that it can be accessed by car from Cusco, cutting down on travel time significantly, but a potential downside is that it has both wet and dry seasons much like the rest of Peru. Unlike Iquitos, the options here for accommodation are jungle lodges- there are no cruises.
Tambopata is the name of the river and the greater region- so staying in the Tambopata could mean any number of things. The region is just up the river from Puerto Maldonado. It is a more remote area of the jungle than both Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado, and so those who choose to stay there are more likely to be exposed to natural wildlife (as opposed to the semi-domesticated wildlife of Iquitos)- depending on which part of the river they are choosing to stay.
Manu is the most biodiverse and interesting part of the rainforest. It is a huge protected reserve, so big in fact, that a two or three-day tour simply won’t show you anywhere near enough of what Manu has to offer. It is about a day’s drive from Cusco, so a three-day trip will involve two days of driving. It’s worth noting that it is a beautiful drive, and you can get out of the car and walk along trying to spot the birds and the monkeys, but you are on the very very outskirts of the reserve.
In short, if you have a longer amount of time to spend in the jungle and want to have a completely inclusive experience- Manu is the best choice. If you have less time, then the choice is yours. It all comes down to personal preference!
Closing thoughts…
Check Out: Our Amazon Tours– carefully designed to offer you the best of the jungle. Or, get in contact with us and we will help you create your dream adventure through the largest rainforest on the planet.
As I sat at the glassless window of the Fitzcarraldo restaurant and hotel, once a base for the eponymous Warner Herzog film, real Peruvian life played out on the waterfront outside.
Street comedians performed to gathered crowds, children sucked on toffee apples and watermelon, a boy in a monkey suit danced erratically to the sound of native drums and Easter week churchgoers strolled past, palms in one hand, ice creams, and babies in the other.
Further along, dreadlocked types laid out their jewelry on blankets, tarot readers laid their cards out on low tables, guides touted for business, and teenagers learned how to fall in and out of love on the white balustrade walls. Iquitos as a city is as alive as the impressive Amazon that surrounds it. It might not be everyone’s taste- but Iquitos is a truly once-in-a-lifetime experience. Get in contact with us today to discuss your upcoming Amazon adventure.
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